Modification when the waist measurement requires a larger size than the chest measurement

During the test sewing of Dave, we discovered that a common adjustment that may be needed is for men whose waist measurement is larger than the chest measurement. Johanna, who runs the Instagram account @johannashandarbeten, has kindly taken the time to write a guide with two different methods for easily adjusting the pattern.

Start by measuring the chest and waist to determine which size is needed according to the chest measurement, and which size the waist requires. In this case, the chest measurement calls for between sizes 54–56, while the waist measurement requires size 58.

I tested two different modification approaches: Starting from size 54 for the chest and grading out to size 58 for the waist (described as Method 1). Since the hip measurement corresponds more closely to the chest measurement, the jacket will be wider at the bottom.

Another variant was starting from size 56 for the chest, grading out to size 58 for the waist, and then grading back to size 56 for the hip (described as Method 2).

Both variants are described below.

To make the demonstration easier, I draw directly on the pattern sheet. However, you can also place a sheet of pattern paper over it and draw on that so you don’t damage the original pattern.

Method 1

Start by identifying between which sizes you want to grade. In this case, I follow size 54 at the top, the purple dashed line, and size 58 at the bottom, the pink solid line on the lower part of the pattern.

Place a ruler along the side seam. Start just below the armhole seam and end a few centimeters above the hem. Here you can decide whether you want to follow the jacket length according to the size you have for the upper part (size 54 in my case) or follow the larger size’s length (size 58 in my case). I choose to follow size 58, as the waist measurement also takes a bit of extra fabric from the jacket.

After drawing your new line, check if you need to adjust anything so it transitions smoothly.

NOTE: Consider which size you need to follow when cutting the wind guard and facing. If you have chosen to follow the length of the larger size—size 58 in my case—you will need to use those lines when cutting the wind guard and facing so they are not too short.

Method 2

If your hip measurement matches more closely to the chest measurement, and it is the waist measurement that requires a larger size, you can try another approach. In this case, I chose to use size 56 for the chest, as the chest measurement of the person I was sewing for was between two sizes. I marked the adjustments for Method 2 in yellow on the picture.

This time, I start by making a mark about 2 cm (¾") down on the side seam along the size 56 line, measured from where the armhole seam ends. I then measure about 12–14 cm (4 ¾–5 ½") down on the side seam along the size 58 line. I draw a straight line between the marks and adjust so the transition between sizes is smooth. Next, I decide whether to follow the length for size 56 or size 58. In this case, I choose size 58. I measure about 2 cm (¾") up on the side seam of size 56 from the bottom edge of the jacket and make a mark. Then I measure about 12–14 cm (4 ¾–5 ½") up from the bottom edge of the jacket along the side seam of size 58 and make a mark. I draw a straight line between these marks and adjust so the transitions are smooth.

You have now graded the jacket from size 56 at the chest, to size 58 at the waist, and back to size 56 at the hip. Again, it is important to keep track of which sizes to use for the other pattern pieces, such as the waistband. For the wind guard and facing, follow the length you chose for the jacket, i.e., the size at the bottom edge.

To ensure that your adjustments work and fit well, it is recommended to sew a toile. I used an old curtain. I only cut two front pieces, one back piece, two sleeves, and one cuff. I also checked the sleeve length while I was at it. Sew the front and back pieces together at the shoulder seams, sew in the sleeves, sew the side seams, and attach one cuff if you want to test the sleeve length. Refer to the sewing instructions for more detailed information on how to sew this. Try it on. A tip is to sew with a long straight stitch and not backstitch. If it doesn’t fit, you can unpick and modify. If the waist is too tight, unpick the side seam, pin the front pieces together, and measure how many centimeters are missing at the side. This will help you choose a new size.

Good luck with your modification!