Different ways to hem

Hemming is the most boring thing I know. Mostly because it takes a long time to do, but also because creativity is limited. It's kind of like taking out the dishwasher. You have to do it, but it's nothing that enriches my creativity.

That's what I thought before. Maybe you've thought of it too? But then I realized that there's much more than one type of hem. There are lots of ways to finish edges. Here you'll find a few different examples, so maybe it will also enrich your creativity in the future.

Attach a cuff

The simplest way to finish edges, in my opinion, is to add cuffs. It’s quick and easy to do. If you're new to sewing, you’re going to love this technique! It’s simple to master and gives a very clean and professional result.

To get great results when adding cuffs, remember that cuffs add length. If the pattern isn’t designed for cuffs, you’ll need to shorten pieces like sleeves by about 1–2 cm to keep the proportions right. The cuff should be about 75–80% of the width of the opening (like a sleeve opening).

I rarely use rib knit fabric—instead, I usually just go with regular jersey. Try it out and experiment—it’s fun to play around and find what works best for you!

Simple hem

This way of hemming is probably what most people think of when they talk about hemming. A simple hem is that you fold up the edge of the garment and sew with a seam. What is important to make sure is that the raw edge from the garment is cut straight to be successful. Then you should decide how far from the edge you want your seam to be. I find that most patterns are 2 cm from the edge as the seam usually is, but you can definitely adjust if you feel that a different distance fits better. You fold up the determined distance around the entire edge, pin and sew with the seam you have chosen.

Some may own a cover machine, also called a coverstitch machine, which is intended specifically for hemming and finishing edges. I have never tried one myself, so I assume that hemming is done on a household machine. Below are a couple of examples of two different stitches for a simple hem; twin stitch and zigzag.

Twin stitch

The twin stitch is my personal favorite for hemming. A twin stitch is an elastic stitch that sews with two threads at the same time next to each other. This gives a nice look and a stitch that becomes elastic. To achieve this stitch you need something called a twin needle. I usually buy it at the local sewing store here in town.

Zigzag

The zigzag stitch is also an elastic stitch and is therefore also suitable for hemming. To make it a little less visible, you can shorten it a little from the standard setting. The straighter the stitch, the less durable it will be. So experiment to find a setting that you are comfortable with.

Binding

If you start sewing baby clothes, you will quickly notice that binding is a common way to finish baby clothes. It is not that easy and it takes a little practice, but don't give up! The first baby garment I sewed was a wrap bodysuit for one of my sons who was a newborn at the time. I bound the binding by hand and had looked at several tutorials to succeed with this maneuver. But what I missed was that you needed to pull the binding quite a lot to get a nice result. It ended up with a very large neckline on the bodysuit and if I'm being completely honest, it looked like that. I practiced and made a couple more bodies. I tried pulling the binding a little more, especially in curves like at necklines and already body number 3 turned out so nice.

The advantage of hand-hemming is that you have more control. But I find it difficult to get an even result. One bodysuit will be absolutely perfect, while the next garment can be a little bubbly, especially if we are talking bodysuits. The biggest disadvantage is that it takes a very long time because there are several steps to be performed to achieve this.

You can also edge band with a so-called edge bander. They can be purchased, for example, at Erika's sewing kit , where universal models are attached with adhesive to the sewing machine. You can choose an edge bander for 3-fold or 4-fold. The edge bander for 3-fold is used for most things, it is intended for clothes where there is a clear wrong side. The edge bander for 4-fold is used for blankets where it should look good on both sides.

Edging with an edge bander is a challenge and it takes time to get used to it. I often use it a lot at times and then it goes quite well, getting even and nice results. However, if it is left lying around for a while between projects that do not require it, there will be a bit more fuss again before the right crease is set. The advantage of an edge bander is that you usually get an even result. The disadvantages of the edge bander, apart from the fact that it is a bit difficult to learn, are that I find it difficult to make sharp turns well with it. Especially if it has been a long time since I last used it. This can result in holes in the edging between the raw edge from the garment and the edge band. Of course, it can be solved, but it takes a little extra time. Overall, I still find that the edge bander saves me a lot of time when I sew because I only have to sew the edging once.

Invisible hem

The invisible hem is new to me and I haven't really gotten to grips with that stitch yet. It's a pretty special hemming technique and for this example I chose to sew with black thread to show how little it's visible despite it. With white thread the hem would have disappeared and was barely visible.

To achieve this hem, you need a different presser foot than the standard foot. It usually comes with one, so check your manual.

The principle for success with this hem is that you fold like a normal simple hem first. Then you fold down the right side of the garment and let the folded hem stick up. The presser foot should follow it. The main stitching is then done on the folded hem, while only a certain loop should stick through to the front of the fabric.

Facing

Facing took me a while to learn what it was. It was simply a hidden gem that turned out to be perfect to learn. In addition to being incredibly easy to do, it also turned out to be a hack for a lot of seamstresses to avoid certain steps that are tricky to do. This technique is perfect for necklines, especially slightly larger ones, but also a smoother way to hem swirl skirts.

To successfully use a facing, for example, cut out part of the neckline of a sweater once more. Sew it together with the neckline before sewing a regular hem a little in from the edge of the garment, for example with a twin needle.

Rolled hem

This hem requires you to own an overlock. A rolled hem is a raw edge that is covered with thread. It is perfect for, for example, ruffles on ducktails on trousers or for finishing the edge of skirts. It gives a rather romantic look and is the kind of detail that makes the garment look a little more worked.

To make a rolled hem on my machine, I read the manual on how to do it. It was pretty easy to do, but the trick is that you need to rebuild the machine a bit, so try to plan ahead so you don't have to do it too many times during the same project.