Tutorial: Sew a reversible beanie

Sewing your own hat is incredibly easy and doesn't require any special advanced equipment or experience. Now that fall is here, it's a great time to learn how to sew your own lined hat.

Choice of Beanie pattern

Before you start, it's a good idea to get a sewing pattern for a beanie. If you don't want to buy one, you can easily make your own. I usually make all my beanie patterns myself (the first sewing pattern I made myself). I started from a picture that Talk to Ruth have done with different measurements. But if you already have a pattern, you can start by folding it in half.

You will need to cut out two mirrored parts of what will be the outer fabric of the hat and two mirrored parts of what will be the lining fabric of the beanie.

1. Cut out the pattern pieces

Pin with safety pins all around the beanie. If you are using patterned fabric, make sure the pattern is facing the right way up. Mark the seam allowance with a seam gauge and cut out. The seam allowance you need may vary depending on your sewing machine, but when I sew on my household machine, Pfaff passport 2.0, I use a 1 cm / 3/8" seam allowance. When I sew on my overlock, I usually choose a seam allowance of 7 mm/ 2/7".

Once you have cut out the outer fabric itself, it is time to repeat everything again with the lining fabric. In this case, I have chosen to line with a mink fabric.

This is what it should look like. There are 4 parts in total; 2 mirrored parts of the outer fabric that lie right sides together and 2 mirrored parts of the lining fabric that lie right sides together.

2. Cut a wedge out of the center of the hat

To make the hat more three-dimensional and fit better on a round head, this step is quite crucial. I usually do this every time I cut out, but some patterns already have this part drawn into the pattern.

Fold all layers of the hat in half.

Cut a small wedge off the center of the top. This will create a V that is about the same size on each side. I usually take about 3-4 cm depending on what size I am sewing the beanie in. This hat is for older children or adults.

This is what it should look like when it is unfolded again.

3. Pin all the wedges

Take each beanie piece and fold it in half again. Pin the gussets and then sew either on an overlock or a regular sewing machine. If you sew on a regular sewing machine, consider choosing a stretch stitch (for example, a zigzag or a faux overlock).

4. Sew the lining and outer fabric together

Now it's time to sew the outer fabric to the lining fabric at the center seam. This will be the bottom of the hat. This will take you from having 4 pieces to 2.

5. Sew the sides together

Now it's time to put the pattern pieces together. Outer fabric meets outer fabric and lining fabric meets lining fabric. Right sides together. To my advantage, I tend to be careful with seams that should meet each other nicely, so at the bottom edge I use Prym's glue pen and needles. That way the fabric doesn't risk slipping when I sew. I do the same with the sewn-in gussets in the tops.

Pin the entire beanie around but leave a part (preferably in the lining fabric) that you carefully mark so that you don't sew again. This is where the hat will be turned inside out after you have sewn the whole party together.

Turn the beanie so that the outside is facing out. Then tuck the lining fabric inside the beanie. Now the hat is almost ready.

6. Turn the beanie inside out

Turn the beanie so that the outside is facing out. Then tuck the lining fabric inside the beanie . Now the hat is almost ready.

7. Hand-sewn details

To get an extra nice finish on the garment, I recommend hand sewing the hole with a needle and thread. Choose a thread that is basically the same color as the fabric so it won't be visible if you want the inner fabric as the outer fabric instead.

Also sew a small seam at the top of the beanie so that the lining and outer fabric are together, this way you don't have to mess with the lining when you want to use the beanie. Fasten the thread carefully and now that the beanie is finished.

This is what it looks like when it is finished.